I decided to go with the K20 over the K24 since I wanted the extra revs for the track versus more torque that the K24 provides. So do yourself a favor and spend some of your budget on a new setup and replace it out while it’s easy to access. and Hasport mounts for eg civic ?? Because the Fit has electric steering we need the idler arm from an EP3 and we're good to go. …underpinnings along with the Honda Fit. Nowadays it seems that everybody and anybody with a Honda chassis is looking to make the change to a K-motor. If anyone has any information or advice on the entire process and or links on needed parts please shoot your knowledge. The engine and trans (plus harness and ecu, etc.) The Fit has a C101 dash plug and the TSX has a C201 plug. Any and all information on this page might be completely wrong. Any and all information on this page might be completely wrong. My K20A gave me zero problems from the day I swapped it to the 30+ track days and countless road trips ( including 2 cross country treks) it was put through. Now what happen is, my vtec wont engage since there is a trouble code for the vss. I'm not sure exactly when, but Honda switched from a low frequency sensor to a high frequency sensor and they aren't compatible so the transmission will need to be newer in order to get the correct signal to the TSX ECU, I believe 05+ models should work. Hell no! My question is, if I do put a K24, will there be something (or a feature about my car) that won’t be working? We can’t blame them. i have a honda civic ep3 Premier Special Edition with a k20a/k24a2 swap in that ive done. I also want to do this, @oxxy I think what you need is a VSS converter. Add all the bolt-ons you please but keep that OEM rotating assembly intact and you’ll be a happy camper. Plus we can’t overlook Hasport, the OGs of the Honda swap scene including K motors into everything from Civics and Integras to Preludes and S2000s. Exhaust is a tough one, especially the header. This is a short-air version of K-Tuned’s intake, they now offer a newer Universal K-Swap Cold Air Intake which you’ll need for the swap. We're using mounts from Hasport and the front core support has to be cut to make room for the intake manifold. I got lucky and found a guy selling a custom made header made for a k swapped Fit, but I did find someone else who has an off the shelf one that works. Cheers from Portugal The ECU plugs A and B are a direct swap since they are engine to ECU. The mill you see in the photo above is a K20A2 from an ’03 Acura RSX Type-S. For purists its FWD configuration is considered wrong wheel drive and even though I agree with that statement to a certain degree, some of my fondest track memories are in the Integra. I’ve owned quite a few project cars but the one that stands out the most was arguably the most beat up one with the least amount of power; the Acura Integra. A lot of info needs updating, shoot me an email with questions. I know it was some time ago but I find your website just today. If you have the money my recommendation is to buy the JDM K20A Type-R setup as it has slightly higher compression, better intake manifold and valvetrain not to mention an LSD equipped transmission making it the best drop-in and drive solution. These days, you can literally buy different levels of K-Tuned K-Swap packages that include all the necessary parts and electronic hardware for a bolt-on swap. 2015 honda civic ex owners manual, 2015 honda civic hybrid owners manual, 2015 honda civic lx owners manual, 2015 honda civic owner’s manual, 2015…, …Honda HR-V much more passenger place and higher space for storage as opposed to others in the class. hi my name is harrison The K20Z3 motor from the 06+ Si is another great option and is what I was originally going to use, but the deal we found on the K24A2 was to good to pass up. Odds are the engine that you’ve purchased has a stock clutch and who knows the kind of condition it’s in. Even the more reason to go K-swap! Odds are you’ll have no problems with either so the decision is yours. The K-swap infection continues! …gives simple underpinnings by using the Honda Fit. These are the exact pieces we use to implement in-house drive-line conversions that enable the installation of an Acura/Honda K20 2.0L or K24 2,4L engine with 5 or 6-Spd transaxle into a Fiat X1/9, while retaining the original FIAT outer carriers, hubs, and control arms. Euro spec, if that makes any different. Or you can build your own using your B-series outer CVs and K-series inner CVs and shafts, but you’ll need to swap the shaft from the driver’s side to the passenger side and vice versa for correct lengths. I have a 99 Civic Si (Canadian version), a 5 speed mated to a D16 engine. I need to do some research on why the cruise control might not work. Since I still wanted a streetable clutch the full faced disc that Comp Clutch uses retains very stock-like and civil engagement while increasing clamp load to hold a stout 200ft-lbs. Juicing it with a hondata k pro v3. For cooling I'm going to run the stock radiator for now. And one of the best bang for the buck modifications that can be done is a K-Swap. It’s by no means the better choice but the appeal of a higher revving engine is what sold it for me. All the info I've gathered while swapping my GD3 Honda Fit. 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